Success: The Impossible does Exist and Failure is Inevitable but Never Wave Hope Goodbye

Inspiration motivates us.  It tells us that we can succeed.  We are led to believe that nothing is impossible and failure is something to learn from.  This belief is so appealing and pervasive that you can't avoid seeing an inspirational quote on Twitter.  I do enjoy inspirational quotes but at the same time I find them delusive.  There are things that are impossible and people will ultimately fail.  This has nothing to do with not wanting success bad enough.  People don't always fail because they didn't want something bad enough.  Failure is often the result of someone else's success or events out of their control.

Right now you're probably thinking that I'm a fatalist.  I'm not.  Realist?  Sure but that's not what prompted this post.

This past weekend I went down to Santa Cruz to surf.  The swells were lacking and I spent most of my time sitting on my board, looking out into the Pacific.  My fellow surfers complained but I was happy just to be sitting on the board in the Pacific, reflecting upon my youth.  I remembered how badly I wanted to be a professional surfer.  Not just a professional surfer but a legend.  I wanted to be Kelly Slater before Kelly Slater became Kelly Slater, the legend.  Perhaps if I focused on surfing instead of letting it fade out of my life, I could have been a great surfer.  That was a long time ago and now it's too late.

This past winter I was fortunate enough to catch Chris Bertish grab a monster wave at Maverick's that gave the South African the win.  That was all I needed to see.  Though I've followed surfing throughout my life, it wasn't until then that my passion for surfing was back on the stove to reheat.  To paraphrase Kelly Slater, "surfing is like the mob, once you're in, you're in forever."  Now it's time for me to come out of witness protection.

This renewed interest has rejuvenated me.  My goal now is to surf the North Shore of Oahu... again.  I've already booked my trip - smack dab in the middle of the Triple Crown.  Everyone I will meet will be a surfer in some form or fashion.  Hopefully I'll be able to surf well enough not to look like a newbie.  I might even look good ripping.  Will I be good enough to surf Pipeline between pro-heats?  Probably not but I am one step closer.  Closer to be good enough to be a walk-on for Pipeline?  I highly doubt it.  I will never win Pipeline.  I will never win Maverick's.  I will never win Teahupo'o.  Wouldn't it be bitchin' if I did?  If I keep surfing, who knows?  As long as there are waves, I'll keep surfing.

There are things in life that are impossible and you may fail but don't let that stop you.  Success is like the elusive perfect wave.  You may keep searching for it and never find it but you just may enjoy the ride.

Aloha...